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We are now in one of my favorite places. I was here as a teen with my grandmother and utterly fell in love with the cathedral town of Wells. It's small enough that you can walk straight out the back of the Bishop's palace and be on the footpath to the next village, so that's exactly what I did yesterday morning. I did a couple of paintings from the footpath before the family got moving to go see Bath.
Here's the cathedral green, with our hotel (the Ancient Gatehouse) on the right. It's part of the medieval wall around the cathedral. I'm up under the eaves sleeping under half timbers.
We spent the afternoon in Bath seeing Jane Austen sites. Marian and I had tea in a tinty tea shop built right into the Pulteney bridge. Here's the view out the window from our table.
And I did one watercolor of the sycamore grove (of course) at the center of the circus.
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We stopped by Salisbury on the way to Wells today. It's one of my favorite cathedrals, with its tall, graceful spite and cohesive architecture. It also happens that my favorite painter's best friend was bishop there, so John Constable painted it extensively on his visits. I certainly felt that bit of extra pressure as I sat down with my watercolors today, but I couldn't resist trying anyway.
By the time I'd reacquainted myself with the marvelous Medieval stone frieze of Genesis in the chapter house, I didn't have a lot of time left, but I wanted to try my hand at the soaring nave. The architecture is complex, but I tried to keep it extra loose, due to time constraints. I'll have to look at it again tomorrow to see how I really feel about this one.
We arrived in Wells tonight and had dinner in the Ancient Gatehouse hotel, right in the wall of the cathedral close. I can't wait to start painting here tomorrow.
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The family walked through the water meadows to St. Cross today. It's called a hospital, but it's really the Medieval alms house that The Warden is based on. We toured the church, saw the courtyard where the"brothers" live to this day, and then spent a lot of time in the utterly gorgeous garden. I settled in to paint and did two right off, sitting underneath a gorgeous sycamore at the center of the garden.
I loved this topiary hedge. Not sure I completely captured it. Here's a photo.
I wasn't that happy with the next one. I liked the color and pattern, but it feels static. I'm going to blame the jet lag.
I decided to loosen up and do a quick sketch of the sycamore just in my journal.
Marian showed back up at this point, and we went in search of tea. We didn't find any, but one of the brothers found us, told us about living in the States in the 60's for a bit, and very kindly carries us off to your his quarters where the alms men live. Lovely high ceilinged sitting room with a tiny narrow bedroom and kitchen. Such a treat to see and very kind of him.
I went back to do a larger watercolor of the sycamore after while Marian struck off to walk more. (The parents were long gone.)
I sketched a second sycamore in my journal on the way home.
And did two watercolors of a St. Catherine's hill. I've been waiting years to paint the Engliah countryside. I'm delighted to be making a start today.
Probably more of a museum day tomorrow, so I took advantage of the easy afternoon.
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We landed at Heathrow and drove straight to Winchester. Our first stop was a sidewalk lunch at the Eclipse Inn from the 17th C. I couldn't resist a quick journal sketch to get warmed up. And it was lovely to sit there with the family and be embarking on a journey together.
Everyone else napped, but I do better if I stay up, so I camped out on a gorgeous day in the cathedral close and did two sketches of the east front.
I love the tree arched avenue leading to the main doors.
A walk in the late evening sunshine, but I was too pooped to paint any more. Bed quite soon.
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I'm also going to go north on my own and paint for a week in Yorkshire. I fell in love with the North York moors when I was an exchange student in college, and I've been trying to get back ever since I started to seriously paint outdoors when I traveled. I can't wait.
Above is the stack of watercolor blocks I bought for the trip, and with luck I'll have to buy one or two more....
Watch this space for updates from the trip. I'll be posting snapshots of my work as I go along.
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My friend and fellow artist Bonnie Hopkins was kind enough to ride up with me for the night, help tote stuff, and just keep me company. I was so glad to have her along. And I was also really grateful for seven of my dance friends who made the effort to come out on a Sunday night and support me.
In between visits, I did a small sketch of one of the original composers' busts that circled the 1870's band stand in the park. It's now inside the Piper Palm House, where the exhibition was.
More of my Tower Grove watercolors are here, along with a bunch from the Missouri Botanical Gardens as well, both of which were founded in the 1870's by Henry Shaw, one of my heroes.
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I think I've written that I've done several art series for Lent but never for Easter. Lent seemed long enough (six weeks), and eight full weeks of Easter surprised me, but I do believe it's right that a celebration of the Resurrection should outlast the journey to the cross. Last year I read some excerpts of N.T. Wright about the way the church as a whole observes Easter. He is an Anglican bishop, but the observations are applicable to most denominations, I think.
Since his words affected my thinking so deeply, I thought I'd finish the Easter season by quoting a couple of passages here. Thank you for taking this Easter journey with me.
"It's a great step forward that many churches now hold Easter vigils, as the Orthodox church has always done, but in many cases they are still too tame by half. Easter is about the wild delight of God's creative power -- not very Anglican, perhaps, but at least we ought to should Alleluias instead of murmuring them."
"But my biggest problem starts on Easter Monday. I regard it as absurd and unjustifiable that we should spend forty days keeping Lent, pondering what it means, preaching about self-denial, being at least a little gloomy, and then bringing it all to a peak with Holy Week, which in turn climaxes in Maundy Thursday and Good Friday...and then, after a rather odd Holy Saturday, we have a single day of celebration."
"Is it any wonder people find it hard to believe in the resurrection of Jesus if we don't throw our hats in the air? Is it any wonder we find it hard to live the resurrection if we don't do it exuberantly in our liturgies? Is it any wonder the world doesn't take much notice if Easter is celebrated as simply the one-day happy ending tacked on to forty days of fasting and gloom? It's long overdue that we took a hard look at how we keep Easter in church, at home, in our personal lives, right through the system." (All quotes from Surprised by Hope, N.T. Wright)
This series of prints has been my attempt to live Easter this spring. For those of you who do not celebrate Easter, thank you for your patience, and I'll be moving on to travel painting quite soon. My family is taking a trip to England in June, and I'm looking forward to painting a country I love.
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The type printed on top was the last step, after the original block
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