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I made it to Amsterdam last week and was able to enjoy again the places I fell in love with last year. At the top of that list (except for the Rijksmuseum, which is a spiritual home for me) is Zuivre Koffie. This beautiful cafe is filled with friendly people, one friendly cat, fresh flowers, great food, and hot chocolate. I had breakfast or lunch there each day.
My other favorite place, found largely because it is a block away from Zuivre and I wanted to be close, is the Seven Bridges Hotel. The gentlemen who run it were incredibly kind to me last year when I was there by myself, and it was lovely to be able to take my parents there too. It's a quiet, small, beautiful building with lovely rooms and views and all kinds of comforts provided. They have given me an electric tea kettle for my room when I have asked and a mini fridge without my even asking. That is a lovely touch when I travel alone, because I don't tend to eat many meals out by myself. It's easier and more comfortable to just go home to my book and some lovely wine and cheese.
I did the self portrait because it was good to be back in that space again and also because I was still testing out my new watercolor graphite. Below are a couple of more I did at Zuivre on lunch breaks from more serious painting or museum going.
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I got to hear Rene Miller and Dede Macchabee (I have no idea how to do accent marks on my American keyboard - sorry, y'all) several times while I was in Paris. They sound great together, with Rene's marvelous blues picking and Dede's 1930's kind of sound. They also look great and are fun to sketch, so I did them several times. Above is my favorite one, in a new watercolor graphite I found in my "local" art supply store that I walk past daily in Paris. I had a great time playing with it. I saw it several days earlier, but the Dutch landscape drawing exhibition (previous blog entry) decided me on going back to try it. Their subtle graphite and wash work was completely alluring.
It's a lot of fun. The only thing I don't like is that, since it's graphite, it will press down and rub against the opposite page once you flip over and are drawing on the back of a graphite page. In spite of that, it's quite lovely.
As a minor sidetrack to the blog, here's the sketchbook page where I tested it out the first time. I was quite pleased with the cat sketch on the left.
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I did this sketch this afternoon as I was finally watching the booth so she could go be heroic for someone else. My friend Christian Stanfield of the Side Street Steppers had speakers set up down there for his wind up gramophone dj show, and he ended up with a bee swarm inside one of them. Melissa also happens to be a beekeeper, so she went home to get her gear to try to help. I left them to it after we had the booth packed up and came home still in a jet lag haze. Hopefully I'll be more fully on top of things tomorrow.
The Memphis Urban Sketchers sketched at the fair on Saturday, and I was sorry to miss them. It felt good to do one quick one today.
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My next to last day in Paris was a lovely transition for the next bit of my trip. I had seen a poster for an exhibition of Dutch landscape drawings, so I set off to find it. There's a Dutch institute in Paris, which I am delighted to know about. They had a gorgeous landscape exhibit, and also a show of recent Dutch printmaker Jozef Van Ruysdevelt.
I did two sketches (looking at skies) in the landscape show. Huge, glorious watercolors and wash drawings.
I didn't draw in the print exhibit, but I did buy the catalog, which did my suitcase no favors at all. Given that the language choices were French and Dutch, I figured it would not be available at home. I also took a picture of his sketchbooks displayed in a glass case, which gave me a thrilling flashback to my Dixon show last fall. And I love seeing people's sketchbooks now that I'm having such fun keeping my own.
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The weather, as careful readers will have noticed, has been iffy this trip. I've been able to do one or two watercolors most days, but not all. One day I had finished my first one just as things clouded over. I had my lunch and was pondering whether I would be able to paint again or whether I should just call it a day. I was right at Notre Dame and decided to wander inside and give the weather time to make up its mind. Of course I did a little sketching. I am utterly charmed by the series of chapels behind the chancel that have stars painted on the ceiling. I'm equally charmed by all the archways that branch out from each other.
I did one quick one and one that was a bit more involved. It's a dark place to paint. It helps to have a good working knowledge of your palette, so you can make good guesses without much visibility. Crowds of people passing occasionally block your light completely, and most disconcerting are the people who blind you without warning by taking a flash photograph of you.
Apparently sketching makes you just part of the attraction for some of the tourists. I never mind people taking photographs if they ask. One woman wanted one of me with her grandson, which was cute, and a different day, a middle school girl group of students was delighted to see what I was doing, and I was happy to talk to them about it and have them take photos. It's more disconcerting without warning, especially in dark places. But Paris is much less crowded now than in the summer travel season, so it was a good time to hit a popular tourist spot.
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I had a very chocolate sort of day on Friday. One thing I love about walking in Paris is seeing all the gorgeous shop windows, designed to lure people in. We largely don't mess with those in America since everyone is driving cars and going by too fast to notice. (As an aside, my home bookstore of 140 years and counting does delightful new window displays each new season, but Burkes is in the minority.)
I had been passing and admiring the window of this chocolatier for two weeks now, and on Friday it was finally warm enough to contemplate sitting in the shade to paint it. It's a complex and layered scene that I'm not sure will be comprehensible, but I hope the visual richness and whimsy of the paper flowers will make up for that.
I also painted my lunchtime eclair that day, largely because it's from my favorite bakery, and they had given me a nifty sticker to close the box that I wanted to preserve somehow, so I devoted a sketchbook page to it.
Finally here is a bakery from a couple of days previous. It was rainy that morning, and I lucked into a visually charming bakery that also (quite rare) had a table inside where I could sit and paint. Nowhere in France is really warm on a cold day, since all the shops and cafés keep their doors open regardless, but I was out of the rain and in close proximity to pain au chocolat, so I called it a win.
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One of the amazing things about Paris, besides the bakeries, is the museums. It's marvelous for an artist to be able to go sit and look and sketch stunning works of art. I visited the Orangerie the other day. Walking into those two oval rooms of enormous water lily pieces that completely surround and engulf you is a stunning experience.
I did a first sketch of the room at large, going for impression instead of accuracy in rendering the actual paintings.
Then in the second room, I did a more intensive study of maybe my favorite of the works. It's darker than most, with subtle tonal changes, and I loved the process of looking deeply enough to try to copy it.
Finally here is a Klimt study I did Friday at the Musee d'Orsay. I must have had extra patience that day. I had already done two highly detailed watercolors, and this is the painting that called my name to sketch ad I wound down. I love Klimt's richness and texture, and when he does trees and landscapes, I swoon.
I walked home utterly, fizzingly happy. Painting in Paris is such an amazing thing to get to do. I am extremely lucky in my travels.
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After a few lovely painting days it was back to clouds and rain. And cold. So I've been a wimp and have been doing some sketching around home.
I hadn't sketched my teapot this trip, and it's always fun to do. I also had a request to sketch the fondant I love, and who am I to disappoint, especially when the request involves acquiring baked goods?
I did one of my home away from home, including my wooly slippers that I have been wearing almost nonstop this trip.
And finally I painted Square Leon-Serpollet, the lovely local park that is currently ablaze in tulips.
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The cherry trees along the top level are blooming right now. I sketched them last evening while I was out doing errands and then waiting for the pizza place to open. (7pm, which is late for this American, but the pizza made by guys from Naples is worth it.)
I was happy with the sketch and enjoyed doing it, so I went back this morning to do a fuller version.
I've been telling myself that one full watercolor a day will be enough to give me the show I want to have of Paris this fall. Given the chancy weather, I'm not always able to do more than one. Yesterday's painting was a little further down my way to town, but still on the Rue du Montmartre, so I'm lumping it in as a neighborhood piece.
I am loving being able to paint in Paris, but I will say that some pieces are easier than others. The morning light really grabbed me for this one, but it was a challenge to finish. It was a fairly busy street right at, apparently, delivery time. So van after large van parked illegally in front of me, blocking my view as I worked. Coupled with sun that kept disappearing when I COULD see, the light in this is not quite as steady and consistent as I would like. It wasn't the most "romantic painting in Paris" moment that I've had, but there have been some lovely ones of those too this trip. All things considered, I am not unhappy with how this piece turned out. Some days that's truly all you can ask for.