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I got home from a weekend in St. Louis yesterday. It was a fun progressive pajama party. Bob and Martha stayed with me on Friday night while Bob called our dance, and then I went up to stay with them for a couple of nights and dance there. I saw all kinds of really lovely friends I hadn't seen in far too long, including several trees I love in Tower Grove Park.
It had been fully a year, so I was relieved to see my favorite old sycamore, below, still thriving. I visited her first on Saturday night and then spent a lovely Sunday morning walking and sketching at the other end of the park. I was having so much fun with people that I spent less time than usual with trees this trip, but I have a feeling I'll be going back again sooner this time.
Also, I'm way late scanning these in, but I saw Le Tumulte Noir, one of my favorite local bands, the previous Sunday at Huey's. Going to sit and listen and have a burger is one of my favorite small pleasures in life when there's a good band playing.
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I'm actually doing a series of self portraits this trip. I do them in occasional spurts, not as a steady part of my work. They usually pop up when I'm feeling especially self reflective. I set a goal for myself to think some things through this trip, and I'm not actually getting very far with that (too much painting and socializing both), but perhaps there is some self examination going on at a deeper level since the self portraits keep popping out, although many of them are in teapots.
First here is the original star self portrait, done a little bit after Vincent and the portrait he did with stars in the background. This one made me want to do the more full view one tonight.
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Of course, I only get the back view of the guys, but I still love it.
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Then in a effort t stay upright, I went out walking and got some lunch to eat on a park bench.
of my favorite spots -- Luxembourg gardens (specifically the statue of Genevieve) and the Musee d'Orsay. I got myself a "carte blanche" when I was here in the spring and plan to use it a lot. And, as one friend pointed out, how often are you given carte blanche anyway??
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I also enjoy sketching special food that I'm really enjoying. It slows me down and helps me appreciate and also helps me remember so I enjoy the moment all over again later. Lavender creme brulee completely qualifies for such immortality.
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I made it to Amsterdam last week and was able to enjoy again the places I fell in love with last year. At the top of that list (except for the Rijksmuseum, which is a spiritual home for me) is Zuivre Koffie. This beautiful cafe is filled with friendly people, one friendly cat, fresh flowers, great food, and hot chocolate. I had breakfast or lunch there each day.
My other favorite place, found largely because it is a block away from Zuivre and I wanted to be close, is the Seven Bridges Hotel. The gentlemen who run it were incredibly kind to me last year when I was there by myself, and it was lovely to be able to take my parents there too. It's a quiet, small, beautiful building with lovely rooms and views and all kinds of comforts provided. They have given me an electric tea kettle for my room when I have asked and a mini fridge without my even asking. That is a lovely touch when I travel alone, because I don't tend to eat many meals out by myself. It's easier and more comfortable to just go home to my book and some lovely wine and cheese.
I did the self portrait because it was good to be back in that space again and also because I was still testing out my new watercolor graphite. Below are a couple of more I did at Zuivre on lunch breaks from more serious painting or museum going.
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The weather, as careful readers will have noticed, has been iffy this trip. I've been able to do one or two watercolors most days, but not all. One day I had finished my first one just as things clouded over. I had my lunch and was pondering whether I would be able to paint again or whether I should just call it a day. I was right at Notre Dame and decided to wander inside and give the weather time to make up its mind. Of course I did a little sketching. I am utterly charmed by the series of chapels behind the chancel that have stars painted on the ceiling. I'm equally charmed by all the archways that branch out from each other.
I did one quick one and one that was a bit more involved. It's a dark place to paint. It helps to have a good working knowledge of your palette, so you can make good guesses without much visibility. Crowds of people passing occasionally block your light completely, and most disconcerting are the people who blind you without warning by taking a flash photograph of you.
Apparently sketching makes you just part of the attraction for some of the tourists. I never mind people taking photographs if they ask. One woman wanted one of me with her grandson, which was cute, and a different day, a middle school girl group of students was delighted to see what I was doing, and I was happy to talk to them about it and have them take photos. It's more disconcerting without warning, especially in dark places. But Paris is much less crowded now than in the summer travel season, so it was a good time to hit a popular tourist spot.
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I had a very chocolate sort of day on Friday. One thing I love about walking in Paris is seeing all the gorgeous shop windows, designed to lure people in. We largely don't mess with those in America since everyone is driving cars and going by too fast to notice. (As an aside, my home bookstore of 140 years and counting does delightful new window displays each new season, but Burkes is in the minority.)
I had been passing and admiring the window of this chocolatier for two weeks now, and on Friday it was finally warm enough to contemplate sitting in the shade to paint it. It's a complex and layered scene that I'm not sure will be comprehensible, but I hope the visual richness and whimsy of the paper flowers will make up for that.
I also painted my lunchtime eclair that day, largely because it's from my favorite bakery, and they had given me a nifty sticker to close the box that I wanted to preserve somehow, so I devoted a sketchbook page to it.
Finally here is a bakery from a couple of days previous. It was rainy that morning, and I lucked into a visually charming bakery that also (quite rare) had a table inside where I could sit and paint. Nowhere in France is really warm on a cold day, since all the shops and cafés keep their doors open regardless, but I was out of the rain and in close proximity to pain au chocolat, so I called it a win.
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After a few lovely painting days it was back to clouds and rain. And cold. So I've been a wimp and have been doing some sketching around home.
I hadn't sketched my teapot this trip, and it's always fun to do. I also had a request to sketch the fondant I love, and who am I to disappoint, especially when the request involves acquiring baked goods?
I did one of my home away from home, including my wooly slippers that I have been wearing almost nonstop this trip.
And finally I painted Square Leon-Serpollet, the lovely local park that is currently ablaze in tulips.
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