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Published on
October 22, 2014

Tuesday explorations

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I walked some different places yesterday. Truthfully I was looking for the bakery where I found fig bread last time I was here, but I seem to have misplotted it on my map. I'll have to do a little more research.

But I saw some new sights, including the funky sculpture above and the equally funky bad relief of a naked woman on the side of an apartment building below.

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I really liked the architecture of the building, and the sun came out after I'd done the black and white, so I decided to stay and do a quick second one in color.

Then, of course, it started pouring, and the day became less productive. I took shelter in the Galleries Lafayette department store and sketched from their cafe window out into the grey city. Got the Eiffel Tower a little wonky, though.

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The weather was better walking home, so I stopped and sketched a fountain at the end of a cul de sac that I always admire. It feels like a welcoming place tucked away out of traffic.

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I ended with a quick sketch of evening clouds from the window. It was a good day in spite of squalls, and I enjoyed seeing some new spots.

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Published on
October 21, 2014

Marche du Clignancourt

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I spent Monday morning exploring the slightly unreal feeling world of antique markets just north of the expressway loop from where I stay here.

I had gone last time and only scratched the surface. On getting directions from a kind shop keeper with some letterpress type, on my second visit I dived into a tiny alley and, like Alice down the rabbit hole, I found a whole, expansive, unexpected world. There are rows and rows of, basically, storage units, but each is an individual shop that can open (or not) at the will of the owner. Like the Istanbul bazaar, there are also cafe and other amenities tucked in, though I didn't see a mosque.

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I wandered and looked a good while, bought one nifty letterpress "m" to use on posters or cards, and did one sketch. I may return next Monday for more drawing.

This time, in addition to the one market I already knew about, I was told to try other entrances off Rue des Rosiers (not the one in the Marais). Apparently there are many of these surprising places that somehow fold space. The one below was far grander than the first one I found, and somehow not as charming (or as affordable), but fun to walk through.

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Many of the dealers specialize in certain areas only. One guy was selling purely coffee equipment --- pots and old grinders. Others only had clothes or prints or old tools.

One only had Carosel horses.

I wouldn't say this is up there with seeing Notre Dame, but it's an unusual and charming bit of Paris for anyone heading this way with enough time to get off the beaten path a little.

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Published on
October 21, 2014

Sunday Gardens, part one

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Sunday was sunny and warm, and the weather forecast is not promising for the next few days, so I spent the day outdoors in two of my favorite gardens. I started earlyish in Les Tuileries to beat the crowds (and get a chair more easily). It's right in the center of things and a bit touristy around the edges, but there are spots and views I just love.

I painted at first right by the touristy bit. I'm usually a little put off by the vendors who line up at the narrow spots and try to sell trinkets to tourists. But that day one came over to admire my sketch, and we chatted a minute or two. I was completely surprised when he reappeared as I was packing up with the painting below. As a gift. Just because I'd chatted and smiled and he liked my work.

I'm going to try to remember to be kind the next time I'm a little uncomfortable around anyone. People really are largely kind. I think I'll hang this as a reminder in my studio, near the luggage tag written by the porter in Greece who reunited me with my backpack and refused to accept a tip. And with the rug the groundskeepers innTurkey gave me to sit on when I paint. So many people have surprised me and shown me kindness on my travels.

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I also really love the green chairs. I'd had them in mind to sketch for this trip. Several of the bigger Parisian parks have these chairs sprinkled around, and they charm me, as well as being hospitable. I wish we could do this in America, but I'm pretty sure they would walk off. It helps that most people in Paris are on foot instead of driving, and carrying one of these any distance at all would be a total pain.

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I walked on down the park to the place where I sit most often. The sculpture is questionable, but I love the square of trees surrounding it, and this particular spot is just opposite Angelina's, which sells the best hot chocolate in Paris. I buy mine and bring it here to savor.

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I must have sketched a lot. Weebly wouldn't let me upload my post with all of them, so there will be a part two to follow.

Published on
October 20, 2014

Full watercolor

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I've been having so much fun with the sketches that I've only done one full watercolor so far this trip, but here it is. The garden of the Hotel Sens in the Marais.

I was heading out to do a second this afternoon, but the Paris weather turned on me and started raining instead. Maybe tomorrow. It's usually hard to tell here from hour to hour, but I'm sure I'll get some more work done at some point.

Published on
October 19, 2014

Saturday in Paris

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I had a lovely day out yesterday. It started with a brocante (flea market) in the Place des Abbesses, which is one of my happy places anyway. I found three small letterpress ornaments for my press, which was neat. And a lovely set of canisters that was too expensive....

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Then I hopped the metro to the Left Bank to hear my friend Rene play. I always love his music. Did a little sketching while I listened.

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I walked Rene to his metro station and then stopped to paint in the garden of thE Hotel Sens. I forgot to photograph the watercolor (the first full one I've done -- I've been having too much fun with my sketch pad), and it's too dark now. I'll post it later. But I did a quick marker sketch after painting. And then walked past the Hotel de Ville and sketched my favorite whimsical knights up on its roof.

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I ended the day sitting a while in the Tuileries. It was busy on a gorgeous weekend day, but I bought a lemon ice cream cone and scored a chair by an installation of wind chime bells. They were utterly lovely. A whole forest of them chiming when the wind blew. I couldn't sketch the sound, but I did do a sketch just to remember.

I did one very quick watercolor at the end of the day. I was about to head home, but the Louvre looked glorious in the late afternoon sun, and I couldn't resist. It really is my favorite building to paint.

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Published on
October 18, 2014

Open Studios

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I saw a banner up at rue Ordener advertising open artist studios at the city of Montmartre, and I had to go check it out.

It was a block of three studio apartments (actual studios, for a change), just for artists. A number of them had their living/working spaces open in a coordinates open house, and it was fascinating to see both living and working spaces.

Studios that were open were marked by a red balloon or three.

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I loved this woman's garden. There were also bee boxes and garden allotments in the back.

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And here's the view from the balcony of the third building. I love Paris rooftops.

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Published on
October 17, 2014

First Day Adventures

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More In transit travel sketches.

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Arriving in Paris. I was too jet lagged to sketch much yesterday.

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But I did manage to shop. Found a thrift store and a couple of neat jackets. (Went back and did the sketch today.)

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And, of course, sketched trees...

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Published on
October 15, 2014

Back to Paris

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I have the ridiculous good fortune to be asked to house sit again in Paris. I'm giddy excited and flying out this afternoon. I can't wait to do some sketches there. I'm going to try to keep a real sketch journal this time as well as doing some watercolors for my spring show. Here's my first to get me started.

Published on
October 13, 2014

Sketches

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I know I keep saying this, but I really am trying to sketch more in those small corners of time I have in my day. I did the above sketch when I got to a restaurant first and was waiting for friends to join me.

I sketched Mr. Darcy (again) the other night. I was playing my banjo as watching him sprawled out on the couch, and I just couldn't resist reaching for my sketch book.

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Then I spent all weekend demonstrating at the Pink Palace Crafts Fair. I was mostly carving a block (what I was out there to do) and talking to people who came by, but I took a quiet moment to do this sketch. For some reason, I really like the shape of a line of port-a-potties. I know I've drawn them before.

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Published on
October 5, 2014

Travelogue

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My last post talked about Lucy Knisley's Age of License graphic travelogue. I got totally excited after reading that, and while I can't see myself creating a third person comic the way she did, I did really try to incorporate more storytelling into the sketches I did at Country Workshops over the last two weeks.

I've even set up a dedicated page in my main site to tell the story of the trip and show the set of sketches I did.  You can see the whole travelogue here.
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Martha Kelly is an artist, printmaker, and illustrator who lives and works in Memphis, Tennessee.


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